Roof pushing walls out

We want to push out an exterior wall to gain just about 18 inches for a kitchen dining area.

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It would hold cabinets but the problem is the floor joists run with that wall not into it Exterior walls are ALWAYS load bearing and will require lintels over and new openings together with posts each side in wall to support the posts. You will also need a building permit for this work. It is still possible to join your extension to the existing exterior wall. You have several options available for supporting the extension. However, extending your kitchen space would be costly.

Gaining more than 18" would help justify the expense. Are you interested in hiring a professional to do the work for you or do you hope to do the work yourself? Use straddles to extend the floor joists, Sheath the new josts, add a header in the area that you are cutting out, then build you new wall, and small roof to shead the water.

If your basement is not finished, you can still cantilever the joists. If you extend 18" out then 36" in of the floor joists will have to be re framed. You'll need a structural engineer and permits. Concrete sono tubes with 4x4's is the cheapest option. However the best option is to use concrete blocks at least 4' down to create a crawl space and frame the extension on top of that. With the cost of this extension, if you can go out further than 18" the better.

It won't add much to the total cost. You will find the engineer will insist on a full foundation to support the structure as it is a load bearing wall. It wouldn't cost much more to go4', 6',8' or even larger as it actually gets cheaper when you go bigger.

Once the excavator is on site it wouldn't cost much more to go bigger. If the engineer required the entire roof be reworked it would cost more. The advantage of going bigger is that the sub trades are already on site. I think you should need permission for that. In my opinion the exterior wall gains all the weight of home, So be careful while remodel ling this.Discussion in ' Carpenters' Talk ' started by diyloftSep 8, Log in or Sign up.

Screwfix Community Forum. I'm lowering my ceiling for a loft conversion and will be removing the old ceiling and joists first before fixing new timber wall plates and the new joists, once this has been done a partition wall will be built across my loft and some timber fixed across from the partition to the eves to stop the roof spreading, i just want to know how long i can leave doing this for once the old ceiling and joists are removed, there is perlins supporting the roof.

Hello Never done a loft convert before so probably out my depth on this on but If i understood your trying to remove your ceiling then install the new joists, keeping all the structure and roof safe.

Wouldn't this work Remove the plaster on the ceiling and lights etc so you can see straight to the roof space without removing the current joists, Then install the new joists and make the structure and roof safe to the new joists then when it is remove the old joists?? HudsonCarpentrySep 8, He wont, because he will never get profesional indemnity insurance again.

This however may cause problems inserting the new joists into the joist hangers and will the back section be ok until the dormer is built.

You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Share This Page Tweet. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account? No, create an account now. Yes, my password is: Forgot your password?Hi everyone, I am currently helping out one of my friends parents with some work in their garage, converting it to living space.

While doing some framing, I noticed that the exterior side wall was not level. I figured out that in the center of the top plate, the framing was pushing outward. The only places that this wall is connected to besides the floor, are the two end corners, and the top of the roof pitch 3 points.

Pushing out a exterior wall

This is a 30 foot wall in length with 10 foot ceilings. My common sense would tell me that there should be some rafters or something to at least hold the center of the wall in place. But that's me. The house was built in the 80's.

Now I know having this wall bulging out is not good.

roof pushing walls out

I can see it on the outside of the wall. Its out by about inches. My questions is, how can i correct this without taking the whole wall down and rebuilding? I had an initial idea to place an eye bolt on the center of the top plate and use a steel cable and pull it in using a cable puller attached to the other side of the room.

But before I tried that, I wanted to get a second opinion from an experienced contractor. There is no ridge beam. The only thing holding the roof up is roughly 10, i guess they are called 'A' Frames?

Please correct me if the term is wrong. All the houses in this area were built horribly. No framing is in between each of these framing members. Therefore, there really would not be anything i could jack up. A way to visualize this would be to think of a room with a roof with every truss going in the same horizontal direction.

Thanks for the input, it helps a lot. Would it be best just to let it go and renovate around the bulge? If you do the cross bracing, focus the bracing on the rafters rather than the wall. Meaning, the rafters are pushing the wall out and a good snow load could cause it to fail.

As for pulling it back in, Take a look at the ridge beam if there is one and see if it is sagging and if jacking it up in the middle to pull everything back into square might be a safer and better way to go.

The same thing holds that if you support the roof you support the wall. Installing cross rafters at the base of every truss would be the best fix but the thing that worries me is the method you will use to pull everything back streight without the whole thing caving in on you. If you are pulling and it lets go, the spring back motion may just be enough to bring the whole thing down.

I don't think I would give it a go without a loader or backhoe supporting it or pushing it from the outside. And a signed Disclaimer from the owner. Dustin M. Any ideas out there?We can provide help and advice with regard to building surveys, structural surveys, independent valuations, property surveys, structural reports, engineers reports, home buyers reports or any other property matters.

We can carry out specific defect reports relating to roof problems and advise on practical solutions. In the past we have carried out survey reports on problems with the roof structure to problems with the roof covering. As you can see from our articles on surveying we use lots of sketches and photos which we also use in our property reports as the feedback we have from our clients is that the sketches and photos help them understand the reports better and ultimately solve the problems and carry out the appropriate negotiations.

We, of course, like to meet you at the property during the survey and we are more than happy to talk to you about the reports. Please free phone for a friendly chat with one of our surveyors. This is a very strange term but this relates to the common rafters rotting at the base where perhaps there is a sit on gutter or even a leaking gutter or a roof against a flat roof and the base of the timbers rots away.

The most common place we see this is on Victorian properties to the rear extension and interestingly it is not to the base of the roof it is to the top of the roof where the top of the roof meets the parapet wall.

All roofs that are significantly affected by wet rot, dry rot or woodworm deteriorate. For example recently we came across a common rafter that had actually broken under the structural pressures having been weakened with dampness getting in the roof. Interestingly in the same building we also saw problems with woodworm eating through a purlin to such an extent that it had structurally weakened the timber and there had been movement in the roof.

We also had another case where the entirety of a block of flats had been re-roofed and the roofing contractor had not lapped the slates appropriately and therefore wind driven rain got underneath the slates. The following articles give further information related to roofs, but don't forget that we have written articles on many different areas of property:.

Common Pitched Roofs. Problems with builders working on your roof. If you look at the corner of this hipped roof you can see that there is movement in the hipped roof. Doors are a very good indicator of any problems and when you see angle irons.

In this particular case this movement meant that there was a broken common rafter inside and this was because dampness was getting into the roof. The photo looking into the corner of a roof gave the first indicator that there were problems with movement and that there had been long term problems.

If you look at the horizontal timber that goes across the corner of the walls this is the tie that is trying to stop the movement in the property. Looking up into a cathedral ceiling. The circled tie was added to try to stop movement. Also metal ties or angle iron externally can be a clue that there are problems, for example in this photo.

This problem was only viewed when we were in the roof. We are forever amazed at surveyors that don't go in roofs and we are well aware that the new Valuation requirement for surveyors means that you don't even have to open the loft hatch. We feel that a surveyor doing either a building survey or a structural survey should always go in the roof. In this particular case the roof problems have been caused by the dampness getting in the roof and also the poor selection of timber; if you look closely you can see there is a large knot in this timber which has led to it cracking when in the damp environment.

If you look closely at these photos, you can see that there is extensive woodworm attack to this purlin. You can see the frass and deteriorating timber where a knife has been put into the purlin. Normally we don't find that woodworm causes a problem, in fact we would go so far as to say that probably only one in a hundred times that we see woodworm it causes what we would term as structurally significant problems however you certainly don't want to have these.

The chewed up sawdust that the beetle leaves behind. A light coloured dust and a light coloured hole indicates this is relatively recent. Obviously if it is a darker coloured frass, or darker coloured hole, it means it is older and the woodworm may have gone. If we can see a valley gutter externally we then look for one internally and check for dampness, which again can lead to deteriorating timbers.

We are happy to carry out valuations, building surveys, structural surveys, structural reports, engineers reports, specific defects reports, home buyers reports or any other property matters on both residential and commercial properties. We would be glad to email you several examples of our tailor made reports such as Structural Surveys and Property Reports.

We feel our surveys are quite unique, as they are written to your level of knowledge.Remove the interior wall sheathing rather than the exterior sheathing, if possible. The exterior sheathing offers more support for the wall while repairing the wall.

Use treated wood, wood chemically treated to prevent decay, if the possibility of wet conditions remains in the wall. This can slow or prevent the rot from occurring. Studs of a load-bearing wall support the roof and are among the most important structural components of the home. Rotten studs compromise the ability of these pieces of lumber to maintain the structural integrity of the wall and home. Proper repairs restore the structural strength of the wall and help maintain the safety of the home.

Remove the interior or exterior wall sheathing to expose the wall studs and plates. Remove any insulation between the wall studs. This exposes the studs for work. Scrap away any rotted lumber from the exposed studs. Make any repairs necessary to prevent moisture from reaching the studs. Dry wall studs are less likely to rot than dry lumber. Cut new lumber to the length of the rotted studs. Matching the exact length of the studs is vital. If the new stud is too long, it will push the top plate up and can affect the roof position.

If the new stud is too short, it will not support the plate and roof. Use the same type lumber as the rotted studs. Add 2-by-4 lumber to a 2-by-4 stud wall or 2-by-6 lumber for a 2-by-6 stud wall. Fasten the new lumber to the existing studs.

This process is known as sistering studs.

roof pushing walls out

If the old stud is completely rotten and has no solid sections, add new studs to both sides. Fasten these new studs in place with 4-inch wood screws that reach through the rotten stud and fasten to the new lumber on the other side. Keith Allen, a graduate of Valley City State College, has worked at a variety of jobs including computer operator, medical clinic manager, radio talk show host and potato sorter.

For over five years he has worked as a newspaper reporter and historic researcher. Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story. Tip Remove the interior wall sheathing rather than the exterior sheathing, if possible. Step 1 Remove the interior or exterior wall sheathing to expose the wall studs and plates.

roof pushing walls out

Step 2 Scrap away any rotted lumber from the exposed studs. Step 3 Cut new lumber to the length of the rotted studs. Step 4 Fasten the new lumber to the existing studs. Step 5 Replace wall insulation and wall sheathing to restore the wall to regular use. Share this article. Keith Allen. Show Comments.It sounds farfetched, but a "bump-out addition" is a clever, secure and economical way to add on, says Curt Schultz, a Realtor-architect-builder in Pasadena, Calif.

If your house's finished floor is above the grade of the landscape outside, your contractor can build a bump out of up to about 3 feet deep, and as long as 10 to 12 feet. That may be enough to add an eating area to your kitchen or a separate tub and shower to your master bathroom.

A Classic Case of Roof Spread

After he has opened up the wall where the addition will connect, he'll pull up the adjacent floor and attach new, longer floor joists horizontal framing members alongside the existing ones a process called "sistering"so that they extend past the outer wall of the house to hold the weight of the bump out.

Or he can support the new floor with kickers, which are angled supports that run from the outer edge of the bump out back to the house, like the brackets under a bookshelf. Because you'll need no foundation work, you can save about 15 percent compared with a conventional addition, says Schultz. And you may be able to save another 10 to 15 percent by tucking it under existing roofing. Privacy Policy.

Home Design Remodel Mechanical Systems. Addition Planning: Bumping Out. Avoid costly foundation or roof work by making new space that hangs off the side of the house. Pinterest Facebook Twitter Email. By: Oliver Marks. Best Places for Bump Outs Consider these projects as alternatives to building full-scale additions. More from:. Load More. Love It or List It 6am 5c. Love It or List It 7am 6c.

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Good Bones 3pm 2c. Good Bones 4pm 3c.Roof spread occurs when there is a failure to adequately support the main rafters of the roof so as to prevent them spreading further open in a scissor type action. Since the rafters are fixed to timber wall plates sitting on the head of the masonry wall, then roof spread pushed out those wall plates, in the process pushing out the masonry below.

There was also failure of the roof purlin to the same side and this had been shored up with a timber strut. In fact several additional support timbers had been installed to prevent further collapse of the roof structure, though none had been installed particularly well.

Interestingly we also noted that steel tie bars had been installed running through the building and through the wall plates to either side of the building. Again, the aim here was to provide lateral restraint and prevent the wall plates, and underlying masonry being pushed out even further due to roof spread. The building will be substantially refurbished, which will include complete renewal of the roof structure. Currently you have JavaScript disabled. In order to post comments, please make sure JavaScript and Cookies are enabled, and reload the page.

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